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Melasms (chloasms) are relatively common cutaneous hyperpigmentations that occur in the sun-exposed skin areas of predominantly women. The pathogenesis is not yet fully understood and treatments are often disappointing and associated with side effects.
However, studies have shown success in supplementing pine bark extract the French maritime pine (Pinus pinaster) and grape seed extract.
In vitro studies have already shown that the antioxidant activity of the substances in pine bark extract is much stronger than that of vitamins E and C. Furthermore, pine bark extract is able to regenerate vitamin C and vitamin E and stimulate the endogenous antioxidant enzyme system. In addition, the extract has a protective effect against ultraviolet radiation and can thus be used preventively against melasma and other UV-related skin damage.
The grape seed extract and the polyphenols it contains also counteract oxidative stress. In studies, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of polyphenols also reduced the risk of UV-induced skin carcinogenesis, skin aging and hyperpigmentation. Further effects of grape seed extract are the strengthening of the immune system and the regeneration of vitamins A, C and E.
Both extracts reduced both the size and intensity of melasma in studies.
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Further studies show that oral administration of L-glutathione over a period of four weeks also has a positive effect on melasma. This is due to the skin-lightening effect of glutathione.
Another skin whitener known for centuries is liquorice extract, which is applied to the affected skin areas. The main component glabridin inhibits the isoenzymes T1 and T3 of tyrosinase and thus also the formation of melanin. Tyrosinases catalyze the conversion of L-DOPA to dopaquinone, the precursor of black and red melanins.
Therefore glabridine is able to inhibit melanin synthesis and thereby influence pigmentation.
This makes L-glutathione and liquorice extract particularly suitable for melasma formed during pregnancy, as they are not caused by oxidative stress but by hormonal fluctuations.
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